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I was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a rough grind of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.